|
|
NEW YORK CITY DRINKING DENS by Laura Kusnyer
The drinking dens that host the City's oft-whispered-about undercover nightlife scene are out there—you just have to know where to find them. Some are tucked away behind closed doors; some are hidden in plain sight, right in front of your nose; some you might not be able to get into at all—but it's worth trying. Just be prepared to hop down the rabbit hole at some of these nooks, where a leap of faith (and a shot of confidence) is required to get in at all.
Back room at Café Select A trip to Serge Becker's SoHo dinner-and-drinks spot could be the rare occasion when you'd want the rhetorical "Do I look like I work here?" to be answered with, "Actually, yes." Typically, the alley behind the kitchen is sacred ground for waitstaff seeking a nicotine fix and refuge from demanding patrons, but at Café Select, it's home to a two-story enclosed bar where guests can work on a buzz after polishing off some smoked fish inside. It does take a certain degree of bravado to get there, though—you have to walk into the kitchen through the swinging door in the back of the restaurant. From there, saunter past the eerily unfazed dishwashers and push through the back door to find a noisy and crowded secret party. Outside, there's a teeny bar in the corner on the ground floor. The rickety stairs lead you up to the second floor in this narrow space, where holiday lights hang willynilly. Just be careful with that martini—chances are you'll catch an elbow while in search of a seat.
Basement of Von Easygoing East Villagers have been hitting up old-school watering hole Von for years, but for some reason, few Manhattanites seem to know about the bar located down the stairs in back. It's no big secret—if you ask the guy working the door, he'll encourage you to check out the DJ du jour spinning in the basement—yet it's managed to maintain that "who knew?" mystique. (On second thought, they weren't keen on our photographers taking pics of the space, so maybe it is a secret.) Once you get downstairs, you might find it hard to leave: a full bar overlooks a sunken dance floor, which is surrounded by comfy banquettes.And dance you will—likely to all those Jackson 5 tracks you love but can't remember the names of.Admittedly, it smells a bit like grandma's been storing old winter coats down there, but some people might say that's part of its worn-in charm.You'll get used to it.
Vans Model Lounge at Delicatessen Okay, so you can't drink here, and if you don't have a portfolio, you can't even sit in here—but it's still worth discussing. Next time you go for lunch at NoLIta comfort-food joint Delicatessen and run downstairs to use the facilities, be prepared to walk past a handful of models chilling under the, ahem, glass ceiling in the downstairs courtyard.And if you get too close, you might run into 23-year-old model Nell Robinson, who will be all like, "Sorry, VIP area, please step back." (Or so the Kingston, Jamaica, native says in jest. Sort of.) So what is this exactly? Ten top modeling agencies teamed up, picked up some corporate sponsors and found a home at Delicatessen, where models can stop in on weekdays between castings, use the free WiFi, wear Vans, drink SoBe, chew Dentyne and nibble on Popchips. UA Marketing + Management founder Bernard Smith, who oversees the project, explains that the lounge "acts as a concierge" to the models, who often have no place to go between their castings, which could number as high as 20 per day, most of them downtown. Brandi Anderson, director of events for Delicatessen, agrees that it's an "act of goodwill"—one that will reach its apex during Fashion Week this fall, when free shuttles will zip girls between the lounge and Bryant Park. "We're usually in Starbucks standing around, waiting for a seat," says Robinson, "so this place is perfect for meeting up." Her friend Lyndsay Nichols, 22, is grateful for the companionship the lounge provides: "We come here and we all have something in common," says Nichols, a native of Atlanta. Between jobs, " it can get a little bit lonely." Both women are also fans of the Delicatessen eats, which restaurant staff deliver down to the courtyard upon request. Robinson enjoys the cheeseburger spring rolls, while Nichols prefers the carbonara croquettes.Act of goodwill, indeed. (Note: If you do want to have a drink here come nightfall, Delicatessen's intimate Mini Bar, tucked away in the basement, is open to the public.)
Cabin Down Below A recent call to The Pizza Shop in the East Village, which sits above underground, semi secret bar Cabin Down Below, rendered the following conversation: nycgo:What are the hours for Cabi? Pizza Shop guy:What? nycgo:The basement bar—what time does it open? Pizza Shop guy: I don't know what you're talking about. nycgo: Seriously? Pizza Shop guy: Uhh…. nycgo: I know there's a bar downstairs. Pizza Shop guy: Just email them at cabindownbelow@gmail.com.
Apothéke By night, Chinatown's Doyers Street is mostly deserted, with the exception of a few fashionable types perched over a nondescript stoop. That stoop's unmarked door is the gateway into Apothéke (German for "apothecary"), a windowless and dimly lit drinking lair. It's much more spacious than the entrance suggests, and the seating is plush and often reserved.The real attraction, though, is the long bar presided over by mixologist Albert Trummer and his team of liquid pharmacists. Tell them your spirit and flavor of choice—or what ails you—and they'll select fresh ingredients and various fermented creations from endless rows of vials to devise a drink tailor-made for your palette and mood. You can also choose from a set drink list, which is crafted daily, depending on what's in season and gaining popularity. Don't be shy to try a custom prescription—it's going to be good, whatever it is.
PDT The name stands for "Please Don't Tell," but since you're reading this, obviously someone couldn't keep news of this covert drink den to himself. Located within Crif Dogs—the East Village hot-dog dive where the wieners are deep-fried and classed-up with fixings like avocado and grilled onions— PDT can't be entered directly from the street. Instead, patrons have to call through Crif Dogs' vintage phone booth, reserve a spot and wait to be called in. Inside, under a pressed-tin ceiling, mixologist Jim Meehan and company serve up concoctions like bacon-infused bourbon. And the best news of all? Once guests are good and tipsy, the ultimate late-night munchies are just a phone booth away.
Hotel Delmano A converted Williamsburg tattoo parlor, Hotel Delmano's unmarked door gives way to an old-fashioned chandeliered interior where tight-pants-wearing locals drink gimlets and converse in quiet tones. Green walls treated to look aged, plush forest-green booths and mahogany window frames (although you can't see out of these windows) create the atmosphere, while the framed portraits of 19th-century men in suits add just enough quirkiness to remind you you're still in Williamsburg.A selection of creative (but not cheap) cocktails make Hotel Delmano worth the trip—like Corpse Reviver No. 2: gin, Cointreau, Lillet, lemon juice and Pastis.
Little Branch An inconspicuous door adorned with a barely noticeable "Little Branch" plaque marks this West Village basement bar. Another Sasha Petraske brainchild, Little Branch offers potent drinks with classic flavors and unexpected treats like honey and candied ginger. Live jazz on select nights is an added touch, and on off nights Billie Holiday and Air tracks complement the sexy setting as well. Ideal for both one-on-ones and group gatherings, Little Branch has a healthy amount of booth seating to choose from. Sip slowly, be sure to abide by the rules posted in the lavish bathrooms ("No name dropping" and "No hollering," to name two) and expect the conversation to intensify as the night draws on. Drinks like the Gold Rush (bourbon, honey and lemon juice drizzled over a miniature iceberg) have a tendency to sneak up on you.
White Star If you like Sasha Petraske's Milk & Honey bar, this more recent Manhattan venture from the king of the neo-speakeasy should be the next stop on your list (unless you want to trek out to Long Island City to see his latest, Dutch Kills).Absinthe is the main player at this candle lit sanctum on the Lower East Side, and the preternaturally calm bartenders handle sugar cubes and slotted spoons with unmatched proficiency. Don't expect to get a seat here—unless you arrive early enough to cozy into the one booth, located on a raised landing in the back. Though it's neither windowless nor unmarked, White Star maintains an aura of mystery and intimacy equal to that of its secret-bar counterparts.
© 2015 TLC Magazine Online, Inc. |
.jpg)
.jpg)
