WHISKEY TOWN

 

Nine NYC Clubs that Specialize in Spirits

by Craig Bridger, NYC & CO. All photos by Phil Kline, except where noted

Char No. 4 (left) and Daddy-O.

Cold weather is back, and you know what that means: damp scarves and hat hair. But it also means whiskey—aqua vitae, the water of life, nature's most perfect remedy for a chill. Whether it hails from Scotland, Ireland, Japan or the good ol' US of A, there are few things more satisfying than a stiff dram among good company in a cozy, stiff-dram-drinking establishment. And in NYC, the whiskey enthusiast is spoiled with tons of inviting places to warm his insides with a rare malt or small-batch bourbon. Here, nine of our favorite places to defrost.

Beekman Bar and Books

A masculine hideaway, equal parts 19th-century robber baron's parlor and European hotel bar, Beekman Bar and Books is appointed with a fireplace, separate sitting areas, throw rugs and plenty of leather.The bar displays a charming preoccupation with monkeys—monkey sconces, monkey table lamps and somber monkey portraiture are strewn about the space. Waitresses in pearls and scarlet cocktail dresses serve whiskies on silver trays alongside small tubs of ice and decanters of spring water, so you can doctor your own drink.This is our favorite of Bar and Books' three NYC locations for one reason: the separate cigar room. Dry cleaning aside, cigars and single malts are destined for each other; Bar and Books is their swanky love nest.

Photo: Alex Lopez

Brandy Library

This TriBeCa lounge captures the sophistication of a modern gentlemen's club—but ladies, of course, are allowed. The Library's wooden shelves (complete with sliding ladders) are lined with bottles—a staggering 900-plus of them, gleaming under well-placed bulbs; rosy light seems to radiate from the booze itself. Jazz (what else?) swings at a conversational level from the speakers, and a well-heeled crowd nibbles charcuterie and tasty desserts. Besuited spirits pros glide between mod leather chairs and small circular tables, presenting whiskies and cognacs like sommeliers with bottles of wine. Our advice: drop your coin on something rare; the standard calls are all cheaper elsewhere (though tasting flights are available if you'd like to try a little bit of everything).

Char No. 4

In a city of whiskey bars that favor Scotland, Brooklyn's Char No. 4 (named for the maximum char applied to bourbon barrels) has, finally, given America top billing. In the handsome restaurant—the color of a ruddy 20-year-old bourbon— homegrown whiskies hog all the bar real estate, available in one- or two-ounce pours. (There's scotch in drawers below, if you must.) It's no surprise, then, that Char No. 4 features a bourbon-based cocktail list and a food menu rich with smoky Southern influence. Works for us—and, apparently, for the swarms of young Brooklynites who crash the spot every weekend.

Daddy-O

Belly up to Daddy-O's black granite bar and you'll find yourself ogling a tall shelf packed with high-end and hard-to-find spirits. It's like a shrine to booze—with an encased Steelers helmet displayed front and center (owner Phil Casaceli is a fan). But the flat screens go dark when there's no game on, and the kitchen (open 'til 4am) cranks out better-thansports-bar burgers, Zweigle's franks and tater tots.Yes, tater tots. Late-night craving? Get your cholesterol fix with "the plate" (Daddy-O's version of an upstate classic—your choice of hot dogs or hamburgers on top of macaroni salad and home fries, with mustard, onions and Phil's father's special hot sauce). Next month, look for the bar's very own Daddy-O single-barrel reserve bourbon. On the whole, it's an understated but energetic spot, melding West Village chic and Rochester blue-collar.

Highlands

A West Village newcomer, Highlands presents a younger Scottish vibe, breaking from musty golf and whiskey clichés. That said, there is still whiskey to be found behind the grainy white oak bar. Expect a modest collection of scotch and bourbon to rotate regularly.The intimate space feels like an industrial loft that went to Scotland to scavenge for found items (frosted windows from an old school in Glasgow, discolored lampposts from an Edinburgh train station). Sample fine Scottish cuisine, like Cullen Skink (smoked haddock soup); wet your beak with an oak-aged Scottish microbrew; dig that new-bar smell.

The JakeWalk

This smart, casually vintage Cobble Hill/Carroll Gardens favorite (from the owners of cheese shop Stinky Bklyn and wine store Smith & Vine) may have been envisioned as a wineand-cheese bar, but it's undoubtedly a bona fide whiskey joint, too. JakeWalk houses more than 150 brown spirits (mostly scotch) and offers a range of palate-pleasing whiskey flights. Red and gold wallpaper, exposed brick and a giant bronzewood-framed mirror all add to its shabby elegance.And one wall even opens to the sidewalk (and outdoor tables) on warm evenings. It's a relaxed, grown-up scene—popular, rarely crammed—and serves excellent seasonal cocktails, plus winning food to boot.

Keens Steakhouse

Keens Steakhouse—and the mighty mutton chop it serves— has been around since 1885. Little has changed, save the prices. Long-stemmed clay pipes from Keens' world-recordsize collection (once belonging to the mustachioed gents who puffed away in its Pipe Room) line the ceilings and historic memorabilia (including Abraham Lincoln's playbill from the night of his assassination) are displayed on the darkened wooden walls. Some 280 single malts are behind the antique bar, under the pale flank of a reclining nude (Mrs. Keens). Join a trend-proof crew for hard-boiled eggs—the throwback bar snack of choice—in a classic setting that simply screams for whiskey. (Walking stick not required.)

Courtesy, St.Andrews

St. Andrews

Times Square Scottish pub St.Andrews wears its heritage on its tartan seat covers, coasters and bartenders—who sport kilts and have the accents to match. It's a strictly open-collar hangout, with a long mahogany bar, two TVs tuned to the game and hundreds of single-malt scotches. Try a "taste" (a one-ounce pour) or commit to a "dram" (a two-ounce pour), and pair it with a creamy Scottish draught (we'll take a pint of heavy). For the adventurous, there's homemade haggis. For the rest of us, a Glenmorangie served neat—enjoyed with live Celtic music on a Saturday night—is Scottish enough, thanks.

The Whiskey Ward

Back when Manhattan was split into wards, the Lower East Side was deemed The Whiskey Ward (take a guess as to why). Today, that title belongs to this rustic neighborhood watering hole, with zero pretension and a bourbon-heavy whiskey list (printed on chalkboards mounted on faded brick over the bar) priced for drinking. Create your own tasting flight or knock back a "Shorty" (a half pint of draft beer plus any call shot) under hanging lamps shaped like prospector pans. Add bowls of peanuts and a pool table and you've got a complete winter survival kit. Sometimes crowded, but less divey than the nearby D.B.A.; less attitude, too. (We've got dibs on a Jack Daniels barrel cocktail table.)

 

 

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